Eggless Peach Ice Cream

I have had an ice cream maker on the wishlist for several years, so last summer when this Cuisinart model went on sale (add to that some coaxing from Rob) I finally bought one. I've made about 5 batches of ice cream and have to say that it's a great machine for the price.

When researching ice cream, one of the ingredients I wanted to skip was eggs. The custard intimidated me and genetically speaking I can do without the extra cholesterol. The Google refers to eggless ice cream as "Philadelphia style", so naturally I wanted to know where that name came from.

Apparently Philly became the center of all things ice cream in the 19th century, and the predominant version was eggless (American) rather than custard based (French). Rob grew up in PA and has never heard of "Philadelphia-style" ice cream which made the whole thing even more intriguing.

Useless Facts

  • Augustus Jackson is considered the father of ice cream here in America, though the dish itself goes back much further in time. When Jackson was a White House chef he got the idea to use salt as a freezing aid. This technique was so successful that in the 1830s he left his position as chef to start an ice cream company in Philadelphia. Jackson invented a number of popular flavors which were then sold to local eateries.
  • In 1843, Nancy Johnson of Philadelphia was issued the first U.S. patent for a small-scale hancranked ice cream freezer.
  • When George Washington was President and Philadelphia was the seat of government, "iced creams" were a fixture at presidential dinners.
  • Thomas Jefferson was a huge ice cream fan, vanilla specifically. Folklore describes how he would insist that those returning from trips to France bring vanilla beans so he could use them for his favorite treat. Presidents love ice cream, therefore it is good.
  • During WWII Italian dictator Benito Mussolini banned the sale of ice cream in Italy declaring it "too American".

Recipe

UPDATE: I've made adjustments to this recipe to correct for some texture inconsistencies. Everything is noted in the instructions.

I read an article in Cook's Illustrated magazine about the issue of ice crystals (that gritty texture) and why they form in homemade ice cream. The gist is that the faster you freeze the mix the smaller the crystals and smoother the mouthfeel. My Cuisinart does a great job but doesn't have the power of restaurant-quality machines. This is where stabilizers come in. Sugar additives like corn syrup are recommended in many recipes, but honey has the same benefit, is healthier, and tastes awesome. Then this summer I discovered alcohol (said every college student ever). Since alcohol doesn't freeze it prevents the ice cream from solidifying into a hard block. If you want to do a little more reading on this subject David Lebovitz has a post here, and there's a nerdy article about the science of ice cream here.

Tools

You will need an ice cream maker for this recipe. The Cuisinart model I use is here.

Peaches at Regier Family Farms - Santa Monica Farmers Market

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds ripe yellow peaches Note: You want about 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 pounds after removing the skin and pits. My peaches come from Regier Family Farms at the Santa Monica Farmers Market.
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
  • 1 1/2 cups whole milk
  • 3 tablespoons honeyNote: Honey imparts a strong flavor so using it depends on preference. Light corn syrup should work as a substitute, though I would stick with honey for the roasting.
  • 3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon vanilla
  • 2 tablespoons vodka
  • 1/2 - 1 tablespoons Grand Marnier
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Instructions

UPDATE: I've made adjustments to this recipe to correct for some texture inconsistencies. Everything is noted below.

  • Peel the peaches, remove the pits, and slice into 6-8 pieces each. You should have about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 lbs. Note: I use a paring knife to remove peach skin. It's not efficient. If you insist on being smart about things, The Joy of Baking explains how to blanch and peel a peach.
  • Move your oven rack to the middle position and heat to 350. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and then lay a piece of parchment paper on top of that.
  • Gently toss the peaches with 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of honey. Note: I microwave the honey just a little to loosen it up.
  • Spread the peaches on the parchment paper in a single layer and roast for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. The goal is to reduce the moisture so that the weight is around 1 lb (16 ounces).
  • Once the peaches are finished combine the milk, cream, sugar, and salt in a separate pot. Over medium heat, bring the mixture to 175 degrees while stirring frequently.
  • Off the heat add the roasted peaches, vanilla, remaining lemon juice, vodka, Grand Marnier, and then puree. Note: I just tip the pan and use an immersion blender. Works great and is easy to clean. If you prefer a blender or food processor that will work, too.
  • Move the now blended base to a large bowl and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight. Note: Be a friend to your ice cream maker and don't skimp on the refrigerator time.
  • Once the base has chillaxed, follow your ice cream maker's instructions and process. Note: I freeze my Cuisinart bowl for 24 hours and it takes 20-25 minutes for the ice cream to finish.
  • Transfer your soft serve to airtight containers and freeze until the ice cream is set.
  • Serve with ginger snap cookies, whipped cream, or caramel.

Storage

Due to the lack of preservatives and eggs (eggs act as a natural stabilizer), this ice cream only lasts about 1-2 weeks in the freezer. Over time the texture degrades and becomes icy. I recommend storing it on a low shelf since that's generally the coldest part of the freezer.

Enjoy!

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