Tarragon Chicken Salad with Preserved Lemon

RECIPE UPDATED 6/30/24

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Chicken Salad

This recipe was inspired by a sandwich I had a lifetime ago at Julienne in San Marino, California. As an option, the restaurant offered a chicken salad that was made with Greek yogurt instead of mayonnaise. I had originally posted this recipe with just yogurt since that's how I used to make it. I revisited the dish recently and found that the abruptness of the yogurt left me craving something a little rounder. The updated ingredients include a 50/50 blend of mayonnaise and yogurt along with preserved lemon, golden raisins, tarragon, and pecans -- I quite like it. You can certainly stick with all yogurt and end up with a nice result if that's what you prefer (though I recommend against fat-free yogurt). While I made my feelings for preserved limes instagram official, I still have a strong affection for preserved lemons.

And on the topic of bread -- the most important topic of all...

I've served this chicken salad on several different types of bread and the naturally-leavened winners have been (in no particular order): olive, rosemary & zante currant milk bread, and everything black garlic. The saltiness of the olives and sweetness of the pecans sing while the milk bread is very similar to what Julienne serves. My advice is to be creative since the chicken salad shines with bread that has a little something going on.

Chives and Tarragon at Maggie's Farm - Santa Monica Farmers Market

Comically Juicy Chicken

My roasted poultry game was never particularly strong until Samin Nosrat's Buttermilk Roasted Chicken rolled across my screen. The recipe on her website is simple and has never failed me as written -- I have no notes. The legs pull away with hardly any effort and even the wing meat (usually sacrificed to the spirits of overcooked meat) is excellent.

One observation (not really a note) is that the chicken can aggressively deflate as it cools leaving the skin quite wrinkly. The first couple of times this happened I wondered if the chicken was overcooked or if a step had been missed. The puffing/deflating happens to me every time and the chicken is still comically juicy. I've seen pictures of this recipe elsewhere on the internet and am unclear how their birds looks so pristine and plump.

Recipe Tips

Make Ahead

I highly recommend making the chicken salad a day ahead. The overnight nap gives the chicken an opportunity to absorb some of the dressing and the flavors are able to marry. I find the tarragon is a little dominant on day 1 but by day 2 the celery and preserved lemon has had time to balance things out.

A Sea of Dressing

When you first mix the chicken and the dressing it may seem like there's too much of the latter. Trust that things will sort themselves out overnight when the protein has an opportunity to luxuriate and soak things in.

Texture is Personal

Julienne's chicken salad is chunkier than what I make. Personally, I like my meat shredded so that the relationship between the protein and dressing is seamless plus it's easier to eat. Cubed, shredded, or somewhere in between is really up to you. The only caveat is that the dressing may not absorb as well into diced meat. If you want to go that route, my recommendation is to refrigerate maybe 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the dressing separately until day 2. You can then adjust as needed. I really have no idea if diced chicken will behave all that differently -- just thinking out loud here.

Ingredients

  • 445 grams (about 16 ounces/3 cups) shredded roasted chicken that is cool or room temperature NOTE: My roasting chicken was about 3 3/4 pounds.
  • 160 grams (scant 3/4 cup) mayonnaise NOTE: I use homemade or Duke's.
  • 160 grams (scant 3/4 cup) full fat or 4% fat Greek yogurt
  • 40 grams (generous 1/4 cup) thinly sliced celery moons
  • 20 grams (generous 2 tablespoons) small dice red onion
  • 5 grams (1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon) chopped fresh tarragon leaves
  • 4 grams (2 tablespoons) chopped baby chives
  • 45 grams (1 1/2 ounces) roughly chopped golden raisins
  • 10 to 15 grams (1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons) rinsed then finely minced preserved lemon rind NOTE: If you don't have preserved lemon, consider boosting the lemon juice a touch or add a little lemon zest for brightness. It's not a like-for-like replacement but will add some punch.
  • 45 grams (1 1/2 ounces) toasted pecans, roughly chopped or broken up by hand
  • 8 grams (1 1/2 teaspoons) fresh lemon juice
  • 8 grams( 1 1/2 teaspoons) apple cider vinegar
  • 17 grams (generous 1 tablespoon) Dijon mustard
  • 2 grams (1/2 teaspoon) flaky sea salt NOTE: I usually end up adding more as I taste the chicken salad. If you're using olive bread and it's especially savory just keep that in mind as you season.
  • Several cranks freshly ground pepper

Instructions

  • Combine all of the ingredients minus the chicken. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and add acid (lemon) as desired.
  • Shred the chicken and then fold about 3/4 of the dressing into the meat. Add more to suit your taste, saving any extra for day 2 adjustments. I generally use all of the dressing but like my salad saucy. NOTE: If you're resting the chicken salad overnight (highly recommended) keep in mind that the protein will absorb some of the dressing.
  • Serve the chicken salad with bread of choice.

Storage

Refrigerate in an airtight container for 2 to 4 days.

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